The Overland Expedition of The Messrs. Jardine

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[Errors in the original have been preserved
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[Plate: F. & A. JARDINE. Black and white photograph.]

NARRATIVE

OF THE

OVERLAND EXPEDITION

OF

THE MESSRS. JARDINE,

FROM

ROCKHAMPTON TO CAPE YORK,

NORTHERN QUEENSLAND.

COMPILED FROM THE JOURNALS OF THE BROTHERS, AND EDITED

BY FREDERICK J. BYERLEY,

(ENGINEER OF ROADS, NORTHERN DIVISION OF QUEENSLAND).

BRISBANE

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. W. BUXTON, BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER.

1867.

TO

SIR CHARLES NICHOLSON, BART.,

CHANCELLOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY, etc., etc., etc.,

AS ONE OF
OUR OLDEST AND MOST DISTINGUISHED
COLONISTS.

THE NARRATIVE IS INSCRIBED
WITH GREAT RESPECT, BY

THE EDITOR.

PREFACE.

THE Settlement of Northern Australia has of late years been of such
rapid growth as to furnish matter for a collection of narratives,
which in the aggregate would make a large and interesting volume.
Prominent amongst these stands that of the Settlement of Cape York,
under the superintendence of Mr. Jardine, with which the gallant trip
of his two sons overland must ever be associated. It was a journey
which, but for the character and qualities of the Leader, might have
terminated as disastrously as that of his unfortunate, but no less
gallant predecessor, Kennedy. A brilliant achievement in
exploration, in a colony where exploring has become common and almost
devoid of interest, from the number of those yearly engaged in it,
its very success has prevented its attracting that share of public
attention to which its results very fully entitled it. Had it been
attended with any signal disaster, involving loss of life, it would
have been otherwise. Geographically, it has solved the question
hitherto undecided of the course of the northern rivers emptying into
the Gulf of Carpentaria, of which nothing was previously known but
their outlets, taken from the charts of the Dutch Navigators. It has
also made known, with tolerable definiteness, how much, or rather,
how little, of the "York Peninsula" is adapted for pastoral
occupation, whilst its success in taking the first stock overland,
and forming a cattle station at Newcastle Bay, has insured to the
Settlement at Somerset a necessary and welcome supply of fresh meat,
and done away with its dependence for supplies on importations by sea
of less nourishing salt provision.

Starting from the then farthest out-station of Northern Queensland
with a small herd of cattle, these hardy young bushmen met with and
successfully combated, almost every "accident by flood and field"
that could well occur in an expedition. First, an arid waterless
country forced them to follow down two streams at right angles with
their course for upwards of 200 miles, causing a delay which betrayed
them into the depths of the rainy season; then the loss of half their
food and equipment by a fire, occasioned by the carelessness of some
of the party; next the scarcity of grass and water, causing a further
delay by losses of half their horses, which were only recovered to be
again lost altogether--killed by eating a deadly poison plant; and
finally, the setting in of the wet season, making the ground next to
impassable, and so swelling the rivers, that when actually in sight,
and within a week's journey of their destination, they were turned
off their course, and were more than six weeks in reaching it. Added
to this, and running through the whole journey, was the incessant and
determined, although unprovoked, hostility of the natives, which, but
for the unceasing vigilence and prompt and daring action of the
Brothers, might have eventually compassed the annihilation of the
whole party. Had Leichhardt used the same vigilance and decision the
life of poor Gilbert would not have been sacrificed, and in all
probability we should not now deplore his own loss. But the black
tribes which dogged the steps of each expedition, and amongst whom,
probably, were the slayers of Kennedy and Gilbert, met at the hands
of the Brothers the treatment they deserved. If the lessons were
severe, they were in every case of the native's own seeking, and were
administered in fair and open combat, in which few of the white party
were without having narrow escapes to record; but a providential good
fortune seemed to attend them, for every member got through the
journey without accident. An account has been furnished to the
newspapers in the form of a journal by Mr. Richardson, the Surveyor
appointed to accompany the expedition, but it is much too brief and
epitomized to do justice to the subject, and omits altogether the
detached and independant trips of the Brothers whilst exploring ahead
to find the best country through which to take the herd; and, as the
Brothers Jardine themselves would probably much rather repeat their
journey than write a full account of it, it has devolved on the
Editor to attempt to put before the public a compilation of their
journals in such form as will give the narrative sufficient interest
to carry with it the attention of the reader to the end. Although
the matter is ample, this is no easy task for an unpracticed pen, for
to the general reader, the usual monotonous details and entries of an
explorer's notes, which alone give them value to the geographer,
cannot be hoped to excite interest or command attention. But the
journey was full of incident, and the Brothers, although not
scientific naturalists, were keen sportsmen, excelling in all
exercises requiring strength and activity, who had acquired from
their training in the bush that sharpening of the senses and faculty
of observing, the peculiar result of a life in the wilds, which not
only so well fitted them for the conduct of such an expedition, but
also enabled them to note and describe with accuracy the various
interesting objects in botany and zoology met with in the course of
their journey. It is therefore hoped that there will be sufficient
to interest each class of reader. Aided by Mr. Jardine, senior, a
gentleman of large experience in both Botany and Natural History, the
Editor has been enabled to supply the generic names of the birds and
plants met with; which, in many cases, if not altogether new, are
interesting as determining the range and habitat of the birds, and
the zones of vegetation and trees; but it is to be regretted that
there was no one in the party having sufficient knowledge of drawing
to figure such objects, or to delineate some of the more striking
scenes and incidents of the journey. As these can now only be
supplied from the graphic descriptions given by the actors in them,
the Editor, without drawing too much on his imagination, has, in the
compilation of the journals, attempted in some cases to supplement
what was wanted in the text, so as to give the narrative such color
as would make it more readable than a mere journal, but in every case
rendering the descriptions of the prominent incidents of the journey
almost in the original words of the writers, merely adding as much as
would save the text from abruptness. He has adhered to the diurnal
form of narrative, for the sake of recording, for the benefit of
future travellers, the numbers, marks, latitude, etc., of each camp,
and endeavoured to compass by this composite method the value of a
work of record with the interest of a narrative.

It is also to be regretted that so long a time should have been
allowed to elapse between the end of the journey and the publication
of these pages. The causes of the delay are--first, the
indisposition on the part of the Brothers to "go into print," their
modesty leading them to imagine they had done nothing worth "writing
about," nor was it until the writer pressed them to allow him to
compile and edit their journals that they consented to make them
public; next, the want of leisure on the part of the compiler, whose
official duties have prevented application to his task, save in
detached and interrupted periods; and last, by the difficulty of
making arrangements for publication at a distance.

If his labor secures to the young explorers the credit and praise
which is the just and due reward of a gallant achievement, and adds a
page of interest to the records of Australian Exploration, his aim
will have been attained, and he will be fully rewarded.

The Hermitage, 'Rockhampton, December', 1866.

INTRODUCTION.

IN presenting the following pages to the Reader, it may not be out of
place to take a retrospect of the progress of Australian Settlement
generally, and particularly in the young northern colony of
Queensland.

During the last six years the great question of the character of
Central Australia, in the solution of which the lives of the
unfortunate Leichhardt and his party have been sacrificed, has been
set at rest by the memorable trip of Burke and Wills, and no less
memorable, but more fortunate one of McDouall Stewart. The Search
Expeditions of McKinlay, Howitt, Landsborough, and Walker, have made
it still more familiar, their routes connecting the out-settlements
of South Australia with those of the Gulf Shores and East Coast, and
adding their quota of detail to the skeleton lines of Leichhardt,
Gregory, and Burke and Wills; whilst private enterprise has, during
that time, been busy in further filling in the spaces, and utilizing
the knowledge gained by occupying the waste lands thus opened up.

It is questionable whether the amount of available country thus made
known has not been dearly purchased, by the very large sums that have
been expended, and the valuable lives that have been lost in its
exploration; the arid and waterless wastes of the interior, which
have now been proved equally subject to terrific droughts and
devastating floods, make it improbable that the Settlements of the
North Coast and the Southern Colonies can be connected by a
continuous line of occupation for many years to come; the rich
pastoral tracts of Arnheim's Land, the Victoria River, the Gulf
Coast, and Albert and Flinders Rivers, are thus the only localities
likely to be made use of for the present; these, however, have been
known since the first explorations of Leichhardt and Gregory; we are
forced, therefore, to the conclusion that the results of the
subsequent expeditions are not commensurate with their cost and
sacrifices, and to consider whether further exploration may not be
safely left to private enterprise.

Let us now glance at what has been done since 1860 in the way of
occupation. South Australia has founded on theNorth Coast a
Settlement at Adam Bay, on the Adelaide River, but its progress seems
to have been marked from the onset by misfortune. The officer
charged with its formation, in a short time managed to raise so
strong a feeling of dissatisfaction and dislike amongst the settlers
as to call for a Commission of Enquiry on his administration, which
resulted in his removal. His successor seems, by latest accounts to
have raised up no less dislike, the difference of his rule being
likened by the papers to that of the fabled kings, Log and Stork.
The site of the Settlement, Escape Cliffs, has been universally
condemned; one charge against the first Resident being, that it was
selected in opposition to the almost unanimous opinion of the
colonists. The subject was referred for final report to John
McKinley, the well-known Explorer, who, bearing out the general
opinion, at once condemned it, and set out to explore the country in
search for a better. In this he has not discovered any new locality,
but has recommended Anson Bay, at the mouth of the Daly, a site
previously visited, but rejected by the first Resident. Previous to
his visit to Anson Bay, Mr. McKinlay started with a well-equiped
party for an exploring trip, which was to last twelve months. At the
end of five he returned, after one of the most miraculous escapes of
himself and party from destruction on record, having only penetrated
to the East Alligator River, about 80 miles from Adam Bay; here he
became surrounded by floods, and only saved his own and the lives of
his party (loosing all else) by the desperate expedient of making a
boat of the hides of their horses, in which they floated down the
swollen river, and eventually reached the Settlement. It is not
improbable that in some such a flood poor Leichhardt and his little
band lost their lives, and all trace of their fate has been
destroyed. These experiences have caused some doubt and despondency
as to the future of the new Settlement, and the question is now being
agitated in the South Australian Parliament as to the desirability or
not of abandoning it.

Western Australia has formed the Settlements of Camden Harbor, and
Nickol Bay. The latter (the country around which was explored by Mr.
Francis Gregory, brother to the Surveyor-General of Queensland, in
1861), appears to have progressed favorably, the Grey, Gascoigne,
Oakover and Lyons Rivers affording inducements to stockholders to
occupy them, but the Settlement of Camden Harbor at the time of the
visit of Mr. Stow in his boat-voyage from Adam Bay to Champion Bay,
was being abandoned by the colonists, the country being unsuitable
for stock, and it would appear from that gentleman's account that the
whole of the north-west coast of the continent, from its general
character, offers but little inducement for settlement.

[footnote] *Since this was written the settlement has been abandoned.
[NOTE--the footnote in the INTRODUCTION does not have a referent in
the text--there is no asterisk in the text. It is not clear
whether the 'settlement' it refers to as having been abandoned is at
Adam Bay or in Western Australia.]

The explorations of Francis Gregory to the eastward from Nickol Bay,
and of the Surveyor-General to the south from the Victoria River,
were both arrested by wastes of drift-sand, whilst those from the
western seaboard have not been extended further inland than to more
than an average of 3 degrees of longitude. It may reasonably be
doubted, therefore, whether settlement will be much extended in that
direction.

Queensland, more fortunate in the character of the country, has, on
her part, successfully established six new settlements, to wit,
Mackay, at the Pioneer River; Bowen, Port Denison; Townsville,
Cleveland Bay; Cardwell, Rockingham Bay; Somerset, Cape York; and
Burke Town, at the Albert River; and there can be little doubt but
that the country of the Gulf shores and the northern territory of
South Australia must be 'stocked', if not settled, from the same
source. Already have our hardy pioneers driven their stock out as
far as the Flinders, Albert, Leichhardt, and Nicholson Rivers, the
Flinders and Cloncurry having been stocked along their length for
some time past. On the South and West, the heads of the Warrego, the
Nive, Barcoo, and Thompson have also been occupied, some of the
stations being between four and five hundred miles from the seaboard,
whilst the surveyors of the Roads Department have extended their
surveys as far as the two last-named rivers, for the purpose of
determining the best and shortest lines of communication. The
Government, with wise liberality, has facilitated the access from the
seaboard to the interior, by the expenditure of large sums in
constructing and improving passes through the Coast Range on four
different points, and by the construction of works on the worst
portions of the roads, have largely reduced the difficulties of
transport for the out-settlers. Bowen, a town which had no existence
six years ago, has been connected with Brisbane by the telegraph
wire, and ere another twelve months have elapsed the electric flash
will have placed Melbourne, in Victoria, and Burke Town, on the Gulf
of Carpentaria, "on speaking terms," the country between the latter
place and Cleveland Bay having been examined and determined on for a
telegraph line by the experienced explorer Walker for that purpose.

Of the six new settlements that have been called into existence, two,
Bowen and Townsville, have been incorporated, and are now, together
with Mackay, straining in the race to secure the trade of the western
interior. Cardwell has experienced a check, in consequence of an
undue haste in the adoption of a line of road over its Coast Range,
which is too difficult to be generally adopted, and will probably be
abandoned for a better since discovered; but its noble harbour is too
good, and the extent of back country it commands too extensive in
area, for it not ultimately to take its place as an important port.
Burke Town is but starting into existence, but already supplies the
settlers of the Flinders and other Gulf rivers with which it has
opened communication. Mr. William Landsborough, the well-known
explorer, has been charged with the administration of its affairs,
and a survey staff has been despatched to lay out the lands. Vessels
now trade direct from Brisbane with some regularity, which services
will, no doubt, soon be re-placed by steamers.

But it is with Somerset, Cape York, that we have more especial
concern. In the August of 1862, Sir George Bowen, Governor of
Queensland, being on a voyage of inspection to the Northern Ports, in
Her Majesty's Steamer "Pioneer," visited Port Albany, Cape York, and
on his return, in a despatch to the Imperial Government, recommended
it for the site of a Settlement, on account of its geographical
importance, as harbor of refuge, coaling station, and entrepot for
the trade of Torres Straits and the Islands of the North Pacific.
The following year the formation of a Settlement was decided upon,
the Home Government sending out a detachment of Marines to be
stationed there, and assist in its establishment. The task of
establishing the new Settlement was confided to Mr. Jardine, then
Police Magistrate of Rockhampton, than whom, perhaps, no man could be
found more fitted for its peculiar duties. An experienced official,
a military man, keen sportsman, and old bushman, he possessed, in
addition to an active and energetic temperament, every quality and
experience necessary for meeting the varied and exceptional duties
incident to such a position. It was whilst making the arrangements
for the expedition by sea, which was to transport the staff,
materiel, and stores of the Settlement, that Mr. Jardine, foreseeing
the want of fresh provision, proposed to the Government to send his
own sons, Frank and Alexander, overland with a herd of cattle to form
a station from which it might be supplied. This was readily acceded
to, the Government agreeing to supply the party with the services of
a qualified surveyor, fully equipped, to act as Geographer, by noting
and recording their course and the appearance of the country
traversed, and also horses, arms, and accoutrements for four native
blacks, or as they are commonly called in the colonies, Black-boys.
Although the account of poor Kennedy's journey from Rockingham Bay to
Cape York, in which his own and half his party's lives were
sacrificed, was not very encouraging for the intended expedition, Mr.
Jardine never for a moment doubted of its success, and looked forward
to meeting his sons at Somerset as a matter of course. In the prime
of youth and health (their ages were but 22 and 20), strong, active,
and hardy, inured to the life and habits of the bush, with an
instinct of locality, which has been alluded to as having "la
Boussole dans la tete," they were eminently fitted for the task, and
eagerly undertook it when proposed. How well they carried it out,
although, unfortunately, with so little benefit to themselves, is
here recorded. Had poor Wills been associated with such companions
there would have been a different tale to tell to that which lends so
melancholy an interest to his name, and we should now have him
amongst us to honor, instead of a monument to his memory, a monument,
which in honoring the dead, rebukes the living.

The loss of three-fourths of their horses, and a fifth of their
cattle, together with a large equipment, has made the enterprise of
the Messrs. Jardine, speaking financially, little short of a failure,
but at their age the mind is resilient, and not easily damped by
misfortune. On their return to Brisbane the Government, with kind
consideration, proposed to place such a sum on the Estimates of
Parliament as would indemnify them, and at the same time mark its
sense of the high merit and importance of their journey, but this,
through their father, they respectfully declined, Frank Jardine
giving as his reason, that as the expedition was a private enterprise
and not a public undertaking, he did not consider himself entitled to
any indemnity from the public. Opinions may be divided on such a
conclusion, but in it we cannot but recognise a delicacy and nobility
of sentiment as rare, unfortunately, as it is admirable. Yet, if
they have thus voluntarily cut themselves off from the substantial
rewards which have hitherto recompensed other explorers, they are
still entitled to the high praise and commendation of all who admire
spirit and determination of purpose, and cannot be insensible to
their applause. And it is in recognition that such is their due,
that the writer has undertaken to bring this narrative before the
public.

CHAPTER I.

Start from Rockhampton--Alexander Jardine explores the Einasleih--
Newcastle Range--Pluto Creek--Canal Creek--Basaltic Plateau--
Warroul Creek--Parallel Creek--Galas Creek--Porphyry Islands--
Alligators' tracks--Bauhinia Plains--Discovers error as to River
Lynd--Return--The Nonda--Burdekin duck--Simon's Gap--
Arrival of the cattle--Preparation for final start.

On the 14th of May, 1864, the overland party which was to take cattle
to the new settlement at Cape York, was started by Mr. Frank Jardine,
from Rockhampton, under the charge of his brother Alexander. It
comprised ten persons, with thirty-one horses. The instructions were
to travel by easy stages to Port Denison, and there wait the arrival
of the Leader. In the following month, Mr. Jardine, senior, taking
with him his third son John, sailed for Brisbane, and shortly after
from thence to Somerset, Cape York, in the Eagle, barque, chartered
by the Government, for transport of material, etc., arriving there at
the end of June.

Mr. Frank Jardine, taking with him the surveyor attached to the
expedition, Mr. A. J. Richardson, arrived at Bowen by sea, about the
middle of July, when the party was again moved forward, he himself
starting off to make the purchase of the cattle. Five more horses
were purchased on account of the Government in Bowen, for Mr.
Richardson, making a total of forty-two. The prevalence of
pleuro-pneumonia made it a matter of some difficulty for Mr. F.
Jardine to get suitable stock for his purpose, and caused
considerable delay. Arrangements having at length been made with Mr.
William Stenhouse, of the River Clarke, the party was divided at the
Reedy Lake Station, on the Burdekin, Mr. A. Jardine moving forward
with the pack horses and equipment, leaving the Leader with Messrs.
Scrutton and Cowderoy, and three black boys to muster and fetch on
the cattle. The advance party started on the 17th August, and
arrived at Carpentaria Downs, the station of J. G. Macdonald, Esq.,
on the 30th. This was at that time the furthest station to the North
West, and was intended to be made the final starting point of the
expedition, by the permission of Mr. Macdonald, from whom the party
received much kindness. On their way they were joined by Mr. Henry
Bode, a gentleman who was in search of country to occupy with stock.
After remaining in camp at Carpentaria Downs for a few days, Mr. A.
Jardine decided on utilizing the interval, which must elapse before
his brother could re-join him with the cattle, by exploring the
country ahead, so as to faciliate the march of the stock on the final
start. Accordingly, leaving the camp in charge of Mr. Richardson,
with Mr. Binney, and two black boys, he started on the 3rd of
September, taking with him the most trusty of his black boys, "old
Eulah," and one pack-horse, and accompanied by Mr. Bode, who took
advantage of the opportunity to have a look at the country. As Mr.
Bode had his own black boy with him, the party comprised four, with
two pack-horses, carrying provision for three weeks. About the same
time Mr. Macdonald started with a party of three to find a road for
his stock to the Gulf, where he was about to form a station; the
account of which trip has been published bythat gentleman.

The stream on which Carpentaria Downs station is situated was
supposed to be the "Lynd" of Leichhardt and was so called and known;
but as this was found to be an error, and that it was a tributary of
the Gilbert, it will be distinguished by the name it subsequently
received, the Einasleih. Keeping the right bank of the river which
was running strongly two hundred yards wide, the party travelled six
miles to a small rocky bald hill, under which they passed on the
north side; and thence to a gap in a low range, through which the
river forces its way. Travelling down its bed for a
quarter-of-a-mile, they crossed to its left bank, on to a large level
basaltic plain; but here the extent of the rocky ground made the
travelling so bad for the horses, although shod, that it was
impossible to proceed, and the river was therefore re-crossed. Five
miles more of rough travelling over broken stony ironbark ridges,
brought them to a second gorge, formed by two spurs of a range,
running down to the river banks on either side, where they camped,
having made about 15 miles on a general course of N.W. by N. To the
south of this gorge, and running parallel with the river, is a high
range of hills, which received the name of the Newcastle Range.
(Camp I.)

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