Young\'s Demonstrative Translation of Scientific Secrets

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Produced by Andrew Sly.

Transcriber's Comments

This is an adaption of the electronic transcription made by Paul
Hubbs and Bob Gravonic. Using microfiche of the original (Canadian
Institute for Historical Microreproductions no. 42355) as a
copy-text, I've made corrections and added a considerable amount
of material. Irregular spellings in the original have been retained.
Explanatory remarks regarding numbering are enclosed in square brackets.

Young's Demonstrative Translation of Scientific Secrets;

or

A Collection of Above 500 Useful Receipts
on a Variety of Subjects.

Printed by Rowsell & Ellis, Toronto, 1861.

INTRODUCTION

The object of the present work is clearly announced in its title.
It is to collect within a small compass the instructions of
experimental knowledge upon a great variety of subjects which relate
to the present interests of man. It contains above five hundred
genuine and practical receipts, which have been compiled by the
publisher with extreme difficulty and expense. A reference to
the list of subjects which the work contains, will show that the
publisher's researches have been extensive, while a comparison of
the work with others of the same general character evinces patient
labour, and cannot fail to give it pre-eminence. While the track
pursued is not new, it is more thorough, and more easily followed
than that marked out by any previous compiler known to myself. The
work contains not merely the outlines on the subjects to which it
refers, but, what appears to my own mind one of its excellences, the
full and clear explanations of these subjects. To all classes of
people, without exception, the work is of great value. It is fit,
on every account, that the publisher should be encouraged in this
production. The work is worthy the acceptance of all, and one which
every man may prize.

1. ORIENTAL PAINTING

Any bunch of roses or flowers, or anything of the kind that you
admire, take the pattern of by placing them against a light of
window glass, then lay a piece of white paper over them, and through
the latter you will see the roses, &c. Now with a lead pencil take
the pattern of the roses, &c., on the paper; when you have them all
marked, cut then out with a scissors, so that you have a complete
pattern of them. Now take a piece of glass, whatever size your
pattern requires, stick the pattern on it with wafers, then paint
the glass all over, except where the pattern covers, with black
paint, composed of refined lampblack, black enamel, copel varnish
and turpentine, mixed. Now let this dry, then take off your patterns
and paint your roses, flowers, &c., with tube paints, mixed with
demar varnish, so that your roses, &c., may be, in a manner,
transparent. Paint your large roses red, some of the smaller ones
yellow, or any colour to suit your taste. Paint one side of the
leaves a darker shade of green than the other, which will make
the picture appear as though the sun was shining on it. When this
painting is dry, take silver or gold foil, (gold is best,) wrinkle
it up in your hand then nearly straighten it, and cover the back of
the glass all over with it; over the large roses let the wrinkles be
larger, over the small ones smaller, &c.; then lay a piece of stiff
paper, the size of the glass, over the foil, and a piece of very
thin board again over this; have it framed in this manner and it is
completed. You now have one of the richest of paintings, which is
commonly taught at a cost of $5. You may buy all you require for
this painting at the druggist's.

2. TRANSFER PAINTING ON GLASS

This is for transferring any picture plate you please to glass, to
be framed. First give the glass a coat of demar varnish; let it
remain for eight hours, or until dry; at this time have your picture
thoroughly soaked in warm water; then give the glass another coat of
demar varnish, and take the picture out of the water; then let it
and the glass remain for twenty minutes, by which time the water
will be struck in from the face of the picture, after which you will
place the front of the picture on the varnished glass, (avoiding
wrinkles and spots of water,) press it well on until every part is
stuck fast, then carefully rub the paper all away to a mere film;
give the glass then, over this film, another coat of demar varnish,
which will make the film transparent; let it dry; then place the
glass, with the varnished side towards you, between you and
the light, and you will see the outlines of the picture quite
distinctly; you may then paint on the back with tube paints, mixed
with a little demar varnish to assist in drying, to suit your taste.
For instance, if the picture is that of a lady, you may paint the
dress red, the shawl or cape, as it may be, blue, the face flesh
colour, (which colour may be made by mixing a little red with
white,) the bonnet scarlet, the shoes black; if trees, have them
green, &c. All you want for this painting you may also buy at the
druggist's. This painting is very simple and elegant, it is commonly
taught at a cost of $3. Try it, you cannot fail.

3. TRANSFER VARNISH

Take of Canada balsam 3 drachms; gum sandric 3 drachms; spirits of
wine 1/2 pint. Dissolve the balsam and gum in the spirits of wine
and it is ready for use.

4. WHITE SPIRIT VARNISH--THE VERY BEST.

Take of gum sandrack 4 ounces; mastic 1 ounce; Elmi rosin 1/2 ounce;
Venice turpentine 1 ounce; alcohol 15 ounces. Digest in a bottle,
frequently shaking, till the gums are dissolved, and it is ready
for use.

5. TRANSFER PAINTING ON WOOD

By this you may transfer any picture you please from paper to a
cutter back, or any other substance you please. Give the board three
coats of white spirit varnish, receipt No. 4; damp the back of the
print with strong vinegar; give the front a very heavy coat of the
transfer varnish, receipt No. 3; then press it on the board, avoiding
creases; when perfectly dry and fast, rub the paper away; the print
is indelibly fixed; then varnish it over as you would any other
painting. This receipt has been commonly sold for $5.

6. ELECTRO GOLD PLATING--NEW METHOD

Take 100 grams of laminated gold, mixed with 20 grams of
hydrochloric acid; 10 grams of nitric acid; the liquid thus composed
is placed over a moderate fire, and stirred constantly until the
gold passes into the state of chlorine; it is then allowed to cool.
A second liquid is formed by dissolving 60 grams of cyanide of
potassium in 80 grams of distilled waters; the two liquids are
mixed together in a decanter and stirred for 20 minutes, and then
filtered. Finally 100 grams of whiting, dry and sifted, are mixed
with 5 grams of pulverised supertartrate of potass; this new
powder is dissolved in a portion of the above described liquid,
in sufficient quantity to form a paste of the proper consistency
to be spread with a pencil on the article or part to be gilded.
The superabundant powder is then removed by washing and the article
is beautifully gilded with a heavy or light coat, according to the
quantity of paste used. Grams belong to French weights, four grams
are a little more than one drachm.

7. ELECTRO SILVERING--NEW METHOD

10 grams of nitrate of silver are dissolved in 50 grams of distilled
water; then 25 grams of cyanide of potassium in 50 grams of
distilled water; the two liquids are mixed in a decanter, and
stirred for 10 minutes; it is then filtered. Finally, 100 grams of
sifted whiting are mixed with 10 grams of pulverised supertartrate
of potass and one gram of mercury. This powder and dissolving liquid
are used in the same manner as in the above method of gold plating.
These excellent methods of silvering and gilding were discovered in
June 1860, by the great French chemist Baldooshong of Paris France.
It is far superior to any other method ever discovered, and will
eventually take the place of all.

8. ELECTRO GOLD PLATING--USUAL METHOD

Take a $2 50c. piece of gold, and put it into a mixture of 1 ounce
of nitric and 4 ounces of muriatic acids, (glass vessels only are to
be used in this work,) when it is all cut dissolve 1/2 an ounce of
sulphate of potash in one pint of pure rain water, and mix the gold
solution, stirring well; then let stand and the gold will be thrown
down; then pour off the acid fluid, and wash the gold in two or
three waters, or until no acid is tasted by touching the tongue to
the gold. Now dissolve one ounce of cyanuret of potassium in one
pint of pure rain water, to which add the gold, and it is ready to
use. Clear the article to be plated from all dirt and grease with
whiting and a good brush; if there are cracks it may be necessary
to put the article in a solution of caustic potash. At all events
every particle of dirt and grease must be removed; then suspend the
article in the cyanuret of gold solution, with a small strip of zinc
cut about the width of a common knitting needle, hooking the top
over a stick which will reach across the top of the vessel or bottle
holding the solution. If the zinc is too large the deposit will be
made so fast that it will scale off. The slower the plating goes on
the better, and this is arranged by the size if the zinc used. When
not using the plating fluid keep it well corked and it is always
ready to use, bearing in mind that it is poison as arsenic, and
must be put high out of the way of children, and labelled poison,
although you need have no fear using it; yet accidents might arise
if its nature were not known.

9. ELECTRO SILVERING--USUAL METHOD

This is done every way the same as gold plating (using coin) except
that rock salt is used instead of the cyanuret of potassium to
hold the silver in solution for use, and when it is of the proper
strength of salt it has a thick curdy appearance, or you can add
salt until the silver will deposit on the article to be plated,
which is all that is required. No hesitation need be felt in trying
these receipts, as they are obtained from a genuine source, and are
in every day use.

10. GOLD PLATING FLUID

Warm six ounces of pure rain water, and dissolve in it 2 ounces of
cyanide of potassium, then add a 1/4 ounce oxide of gold; the
solution will at first be yellowish, but will soon subside to white;
then half fill a bottle with whiting, fill it up with this solution
and shake it well; you may now take a piece of old cotton, wet it
with the solution, rub it well over brass, copper, &c., and it is
nicely washed with gold.

11. SILVER PLATING FLUID

Dissolve one ounce of nitrate of silver, in crystal, in 12 ounces
of soft water; then dissolve in the water two ounces of cyanuret of
potash; shake the whole together and let it stand until it becomes
clear. Have ready some 1/2 ounce vials, and fill them half full
of whiting, then fill up the bottles and it is ready for use. The
whiting does not increase the coating powder--it only helps to
clear the articles and save the silver fluid by half filling the
bottles. The above quantity of materials will cost about $1.62c.,
so that the fluid will be about 3 cents a bottle. It is used in
the same way as the gold plating fluid.

12. QUICKSILVER PLATING FLUID

Take of quicksilver one ounce, one ounce nitric acid, one ten
cent piece, rain water 1/2 pint to a pint, put the three first
articles into a tumbler together; let them stand until dissolved,
occasionally stirring, then add the water, and it is ready for use.
This is used in the same way as the silver and gold plating fluid.

13. TO GILD STEEL

Pour some of the ethereal solution of gold into a wine-glass,
and dip into it the blade of a new penknife, lancet, razor, &c.,
withdraw the instrument and allow the ether to evaporate, the blade
will then be found to be covered with a beautiful coat of gold; the
blade may be moistened with a clean rag or a small piece of very dry
sponge dipped into the ether, and the same effect will be produced.

14. TO GILD COPPER, BRASS, &c.--BY AN AMALGAM

The gilding of these inferior metals and alloys of them is effected
by the assistance of mercury with which the gold is amalgamated. The
mercury is evaporated while the gold is fixed by the application of
heat, the whole is then burnished of left mat in the whole or in
part, according as required.

15. GILDING GLASS AND PORCELAIN

Dissolve in boiling linseed oil an equal weight either of copal or
amber, and add as much oil of turpentine as will enable you to apply
the compound or size thus formed as thin as possible to the parts of
the glass intended to be gilt; the glass is to be placed in a stove
till it is so warm as almost to burn the fingers when handled. At
this temperature the size becomes adhesive, and a piece of leaf
gold applied in the usual way will immediately stick. Sweep off the
superfluous portions of the leaf, and when quite cold it may be
burnished, taking care to interpose a piece of india paper between
the gold and the burnisher. It sometimes happens when the varnish is
not very good that by repeated washing the gold wears off; on this
account the practice of burning it in is sometimes had recourse to;
for this purpose some gold powder is ground with borax, and in this
state applied to the clean surface of the glass by a camel hair
pencil; when quite dry the glass is put into a stove, heated to
about the temperature of an annealing oven, the gum burns off; and
the borax, by vitrifying, cements the gold with great firmness to
the glass, after which it may be burnished.

The gilding upon porcelain is in like manner fixed by heat and the
use of borax, and this kind of ware, being neither transparent nor
liable to soften, and thus to be injured in its form in a low red
heat, is free from the risk and injury which the finer and more
fusible kinds of glass are apt to sustain from such treatment.
Porcelain and other wares may be platinized, silvered, tinned,
or bronzed, in a similar manner.

16. GILDING THE EDGES OF PAPER

The edges of the leaves of books and letter paper are gilded
whilst in a horizontal position in the bookbinder's press or some
arrangement of the same nature, by first applying a composition
formed of four parts of Armenian-bole and one of candied sugar,
ground together with water to a proper consistence, and laid on by
a brush with the white of an egg. This coating, when nearly dry is
smoothed by the burnisher, it is then slightly moistened by a sponge
dipped in clean water and squeezed in the hand; the gold leaf is now
taken up on a piece of cotton from the leathern cushion and applied
on the moistened surface; when dry it is to be burnished by rubbing
the burnisher over it repeatedly from end to end, taking care not
to wound the surface by the point.

17. PROFESSOR WORTS' AMALGAM FOR SILVERING

This is the only means yet discovered for silvering iron directly,
yet it is not so lasting as some of the other processes. Take
quicksilver and the metal potassium, equal parts by volume, put them
together in a tumbler, and if both metals be good there will be a
brisk ebullition, which continues until an amalgam of the two is
formed, then add as much quicksilver as there is of the amalgam; let
it work till thoroughly mixed, and it is ready for use. This amalgam
you may apply with a cloth to any metal, even iron, though it be a
rusty bar, and you have it neatly silvered over.

18. FOR COPPERING IRON

This is the latest method, and that now in use. To a solution of
sulphate of copper, add a solution of ferrocyanide of pottasium, so
long as a precipitate continues to be formed. This is allowed to
settle, and the clear liquor being decanted the vessel is filled
with water, and when the precipitate settles the liquor is again
decanted, and continue to repeat these washings until the sulphate
of potash is washed quite out; this is known by adding a little
chloride of barium to a small quantity of the washings, and when
there is no white precipitate formed by the test, the precipitate is
sufficiently washed. A solution of cyanide of potassium is now added
to this precipitate until it is dissolved, during which process the
solution becomes warm by the chemical re-action which takes place.
The solution is filtered, and allowed to repose all night. If
the solution of cyanide of potassium that is used is strong, the
greater portion of the ferrocyanide of potassium crystalises in the
solution, and may be collected and preserved for use again. If the
solution of cyanide of potassium used to dissolve the precipitate is
dilute, it will be necessary to condense the liquor by evaporation
to obtain the yellow prussiate in crystals. The remaining solution
is the coppering solution; should it not be convenient to separate
the yellow prussiate by crystallization, the presence of that salt
in the solution does not deteriorate it nor interfere with its power
of depositing copper.

19. PECULIARITIES IN WORKING CYANIDE OF COPPER SOLUTION

The true composition of the salts thus formed by copper and cyanide
of potassium has not yet been determined, but their relations to
the battery and electrolyzation are peculiar. The solution must
be worked at a heat not less than from 150 to 200 degrees Farenheit
(that is not quite as hot a boiling water, which is 212 degrees
Farenheit.) All other solutions we have tried follow the laws, that
if the electricity is so strong as to cause gas to be evolved at
the electrode, the metal will be deposited in a sandy or powdered
state, but the solution of cyanide of copper and potassium is an
exception to these laws, as there is no reguline deposit obtained
unless gas is freely evolved from the surface of the article upon
which the deposit is taking place. As this solution is used hot, a
considerable evaporation takes place, which requires that additions
be made to the solution from time to time. If water alone be used
for this purpose it will precipitate a great quantity of the
copper as a white powder, but this is prevented by dissolving a
little cyanide of potassium in the water at the rate of 4 ounces
to the gallon. The vessels used in factories for this solution are
generally of copper, which are heated over a flue or in a sand-bath,
the vessel itself serving as the positive electrode of the battery;
but any vessel will suit if a copper electrode is employed when the
vessel is not of copper.

20. PREPARATION OF IRON FOR COATING WITH COPPER

When it is required to cover an iron article with copper, it is
first steeped in hot caustic potash or soda to remove any grease or
oil. Being washed from that it is placed for a short time in diluted
sulphuric acid, consisting of about one part acid to 16 parts of
water, which removes any oxide that may exist. It is then washed in
water and scoured with sand till the surface is perfectly clean,
and finally attached to the battery and immersed in the cyanide
solution. All this must be done with despatch so as to prevent the
iron combining with oxygen. An immersion of five minutes duration in
the cyanide solution is sufficient to deposit upon the iron a film
of copper, but it is necessary to the complete protection of the
iron that it should have a considerably thick coating, and as the
cyanide process is expensive, it is preferable when the iron has
received a film of copper by the cyanide solution, to take it out,
wash it in water, and attach to it a simple cell or weak battery,
and put it into a solution of sulphate of copper. If there is any
part not sufficiently covered with copper by the cyanide solution,
the sulphate will make these parts of a dark colour, which a touch
of the finger will remove. When such is the case, the article must
be taken out, scoured, and put again into the cyanide solution till
perfectly covered. A little practice will render this very easy. The
sulphate solution for covering iron should be prepared by adding
it by degrees a little caustic potash, so long as the precipitate
formed is re-dissolved. This neutralizes a great portion of the
sulphuric acid, and thus the iron is not so readily acted upon.
When the iron is thus coppered, proceed to silver it in the manner
recommended for silvering according to receipt No. 9; or if you want
to put a very heavy coating of silver on it, make use of a strong
battery.

21. SOLDERING FLUID

For mending articles of tin, iron, zinc, copper, and almost all
other metals. Take 2 fl. ounces of muriatic acid, add zinc till
bubbles cease to rise, add 1/2 a teaspoonful of sal-ammoniac and 2
ounces of water. Damp the part you wish to solder with this fluid,
lay on a small piece of lead, and with a piece of hot iron or
soldering iron solder the part.

22. SOLDER FOR TIN

Take of pewter 4 parts, tin 1 part, bismuth 1 part; melt them
together. Resin is used with this solder.

23. COLD METHOD OF SILVERING IRON WITH SILVER-PLATE

Polish the iron toy wish to silver, then damp it over with soldering
fluid (receipt No. 21) When this is done give it a coat of No. 22
solder. This is done by laying a piece of cold solder on the iron,
and spreading it over with a heated soldering iron, when by this
means you get the iron nicely plated with solder, then lay on
your silver-plate evenly, and gently rub it over with the heated
soldering iron, and it will become firmly united with the solder as
the solder is with the iron, so that you have the iron beautifully
plated with silver with very little cost or trouble.

24. HOT METHOD OF SILVERING IRON WITH SILVER-PLATE

First polish the iron you wish to silver, wet it well over
with No. 21 soldering fluid; then having procured that kind of
silver-plate which is tin on one side and silver on the other, place
it evenly on, with the tined side next to the iron, then place it
on the fire until the silver-plate melts down, then at once take it
from the fire, and it will be firmly attached to the iron, and will
be excellent plate; yet No. 23, the cold method, is to be preferred
in most cases.

25. SILVERING LOOKING-GLASSES WITH QUICKSILVER

Take a piece of marble or some other substance very smooth, true,
and level, lay on this the glass you wish to silver, then make a
ridge of putty on the marble against the edge of the glass all round
it, so that you can pour quicksilver on the glass until it is all
covered over, and will be prevented from running off by the ridge
of putty; an inch or two, or three outside this ridge make another
of putty; then cover the quicksilver on the glass all over with
tin-foil, and press it firmly but cautiously against the glass until
you have squeezed out all the quicksilver you can. While you press
this, you may remove part of the first ridge of putty to give the
quicksilver a chance of escape. When it is well pressed against
the glass there will be an amalgam formed of the tin-foil and the
quicksilver that is left, which will firmly adhere to the glass. By
this means you have a very beautiful and cheap looking-glass; the
quicksilver that escapes, being saved by the second ridge of putty,
may be used again.

26. SILVERING LOOKING-GLASSES WITH PURE SILVER

Prepare a mixture of 3 grains of ammonia, 60 grains of nitrate of
silver, 90 minims of spirits of wine, 90 minims of water; when the
nitrate of silver is dissolved, filter the liquid and add a small
quantity of sugar (15 grains) dissolved in 1-1/2 oz. of water, and 1
1/2 oz. of spirits of wine. Put the glass into this mixture, having
one side covered with varnish, gum, or some substance to prevent the
silver being attached to it. Let it remain for a few days and you
have a most elegant looking-glass, yet it is far more costly than
the quicksilver.

27. PATENT BURNING FLUID

To 1 gallon of 95 per cent. alcohol, add 1 quart of camphene oil;
mix and shake well, and if transparent it is fit for use, if not,
add sufficient alcohol, shaking it well, to bring it to the natural
colour of the alcohol. It may be coloured to suit the fancy by
adding a little tincture of golden seal, or any other colouring
drug. This receipt has been sold for $10.

28. BURNING FLUID

Take 4 quarts alcohol, and 1 quart spirits of turpentine; mix well
together, and it is ready for use.

29. NON-EXPLOSIVE BURNING FLUID

Take 1 gallon 44 proof alcohol, 1 quart camphene, 3 oz. of alum
pulverized, 1/2 oz. camphor gum, 65 drops cuicuma; mix all together
and let it stand 12 hours, and it is ready for use.

30. VINEGAR IN THREE DAYS WITHOUT DRUGS

Take 2 barrels and saw one of them in two in the centre, and put
one-half on the top, and the other at the bottom of the whole
barrel, (or you may use three whole barrels if you like.) The middle
barrel is to be filled with maple, beech, of baswood shavings, which
are to be planed from the edge of boards only two or three feet
long, which allows the shavings to roll, and prevents them from
packing tight, and also allows air to circulate through them, which
is admitted through a number of inch holes, which are to be made
near the bottom of the barrel and just above the faucet, which lets
the vinegar run into the tub below. The top tub has its bottom
pierced with small bit holes, having several threads of twine
hanging in them to conduct the vinegar evenly over the top of the
shavings in the middle of the barrel. Air must be permitted to pass
out between the top tub and barrel, which comes in at the holes in
the bottom. The shavings which fill the barrel must be soaked three
or four days in good vinegar before they are put in. When thus
arranged, for every gallon of water use 1/2 lb. of sugar; (that
you get from molasses barrels does vary well.) If you wish to make
vinegar from whiskey, put in 4 gallons of water to 1 gallon of
whiskey; and if from cider, put in one-third water, and fill the
top tub with this fluid, putting 1 pint good yeast to each barrel
making; and have the holes with threads or twine so arranged that
it will run through every twelve hours; and dip or pump up with a
wooden pump every night or morning, and three days will make good
substantial vinegar, which will keep and also improve by age. Some
use only 1 gallon of whiskey to 7 gallons of water. This accounts
for so much poor vinegar. Make good vinegar, it will pay you. If a
few gallons of water is made boiling hot so as to warm the whole of
a gentle warmth, it will make faster than if used cold. This must
be done in cool weather, and the room also should be kept warm. For
families, small kegs will do, but for manufacturers large casks are
best. Many make vinegar by just putting fluid into the barrels of
shavings, soaked as directed above, and do not let it run through,
but let it stand in the shavings till sour; but it does not work
fast enough for manufacturers. It will do where only a small amount
is needed, keeping the same strength of fluid as for the other plan,
which is best. Two or three years ago, this receipt was sold for
from $50 to $150. If vinegar is made from whiskey, it will have
a more beautiful colour if 5 or 6 lbs. of sugar is put into each
barrel, of course keeping the same proportions of water as though
only one kind was used. The shavings will last the whole season.

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